Dokhona : Traditional attire of the Bodos

Bodo damsels wearing traditional attire Dokhona photo by Bodo Media

Weaving to the Bodos has been traditional since time immemorial.Bodo women are expert weavers and in every Bodo household, we have loom where our ladies seem to weave their dreams with Parrow Megon (Pigeon's eye),Thaigir Bibar ( Ou flower),Baigri Bihar (Wild berry's flower), Hajw or Pahar Agor, Dinkhiya Agor ( Fem leaves's patterm), Mafur Agan (Bear's feet), Khaseo Bikha (Chest of tortoise).

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Mahatma Gandhi, the Father of our Nation has rightly said that Bodo women weave their dreams in their loom. Oral history and the folk culture of the Bodos give evidences that Bodos lived very close to nature and this passion and love for nature are painted with the loveliest of colours in the looms of Bodo weaving.

The Skill of weaving comes naturally to a Bodo Girl. She starts weaving as playful activity in a model of the tiny loom which is known as "Sudam Danai" (Garonai Danai) at a very young age.

A Bodo girl with the best skill of weaving used to be the priority of the most illegible Bodo bachelor during the selection of a bride just a few years back "Haba Gwrwng Hwnjao" in Bodo society included the skill of weaving a must along with all good behaviour that a gentle women is attributed with.

Most of the Bodo women even in these modern times weave their own colourful Dokhona and Jwmgra or fali chadar (traditional chunni) giving the most intricate designs of nature.

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History depicts that Bodo women wove 'Aronai' traditional muffler for their beloved 'Jwhwlao'(brave soldier) going to the war within a day and prayed for their victory to the Anan Gosai (God Almighty).

Bodo women wear the Dokhona and a scarf known as Jwmgra or Pasra of Fali with a blouse

Dokhona

Dokhona, the traditional dress of the Bodo women is a one-piece garment that is wrapped around a body in a unique style giving a look of two-piece wear. The word ' Dokhona' means six corners (Do means six & Khona in Bodo means corner) and if observed carefully the Dokhona when wrapped & worn gives six corners.

It has been presented by some that the word 'Dokhona' may have its origin or think with 'Drubka' which is a dress worn by Hhutanese/ Tibetan women.Thsi has been said as Bodo has many common words with the Tibetan language.

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A dokhona measures three and half metres in length & one and half metres in length & one and half metres in width.Bodo women tie dokhona round the chest just above the breast flowing up to the ankle. A young Bodo Girl wraps the dokhona around her waist in the same style till she attains puberty. It is known as 'Janjiao Gannai' (Wearing around the waist) .

One day she attains her puberty, and she welcomes her women's hood wearing a new ornamental Dokhona from above the breast flowing down to ankle. This is known as 'Jerbao Gannai'

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The common colour in Bodo dresses is mainly all shades of yellow, orange and green which has been expresssed as 'Gwmw Gwthang Batho Gang'. (Gwmw is yellow & Gwthang is green). These colours were perhaps preferred by Bodo women because the dyening for these colours was easier to extract from the roots, tubers, barks, and leaves found in nature.

The Plain weaved Dokhonas are known as 'Sala Matha' and the Dokhonas with texture motifs and patterns are known as 'Dokhona Thawsi' .

Dokhona can be worn in two different styles -

1.Dokhona Langa :- Dokhona Langa is a recognized dress of Bodo women and this style is worn by Bodo women in their daily social life and festive occasions as well.

2. Dokhona Ogrong:- The wear of this type of Dokhona is rare now. It is used during the performances of the Kherai Puja by Doudini. Though rare it is still used in a few places of the interior villages in Baksa, Darrang, Nalbari, and Sonitpur Districts.

Jwmgra or Pasra of Fali (Bodo Scarf)

Dokhona worn by women is incomplete without a Jwmgra.Jwmgra is a shoulder scarf worn by Bodo Girls.It is also known as Fasra,Pali or Rege-Regang.

Bodo Jwmgra is the most beautiful and attractive piece with designs where Bodo girls bring out the beauty of nature. 'Hajw or Pahar Agor' Jwngra with the designs of hills & scenery is the most adored scarf used by Bodo women both young and old.

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Blouse

In earlier days the Bodo women did not use blouses or any other upper body cover. To protect from the cold, a scarf known as 'Alowan' was used and the older women opened the tie of Dokhona in the waist and used portion of it to cover the upper part of the body above the breast (Ji-Sakahanai). The culture of wearing blouse must have got introduced to the Bodos by coming in contact with Bengali culture.

Aronai

It is a traditional muffler of the Bodos where the floral pattern used is again the 'Hajw or Pahar Agor'. Today the colorful Aronai is a symbol of Bodo's way of showing love and hospitality to the world. Bodos traditionally welcome their revered guest with Aronai and it has to be mentioned that Aronai and it has been mentioned that Aronai with its unique design and bright colours is highly appreciated by everyone in any corner of the world who ever have come across it. The arena is a muffler used by men, especially during their performance in cultural or religious festivals.

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Dokhona and Bagurumba Dance

The beauty of the colorful Bodo Dokhona is enhanced and highlighted during its famous Bagurumba Dance. Bagurumba dance is one of the most beautiful and attractive folk dances of India associated with merry-making by beautiful Bodo damsels.

Taking both the ends of hand-woven 'Pahar Agor' jwngra spread round the neck in their hands like the sprightly butterflies, the dancers move forward with alternate foot and then recede backward keeping the rhythm of the song 'Bagurumba Hai Bagurumba' sung by themselves. This dance begins in horizontal lines, takes a circular pattern with a rising tempo, and ends as if in beautiful waves.

Words by Pratibha Brahma

[This article was originally published by Rwikhamuthi : The Biennial Mouth Piece of Kokrajhar District Committee]